Tag Archives: japan

Mt. Fuji, Where Are You?

Ahh, the elusive Mt. Fuji!! This was one of the things I was most excited to see in Japan. Unfortunately, we did not realize that it often goes unseen. We traveled to Hakone to see the legendary mountain and were disappointed to find out that it is usually covered by the clouds. In fact, we asked someone where it was, and they told us we were facing it!

We came here in March, and despite being close to cherry blossom season, we did not get the postcard photo-op that we had envisioned. Nonetheless, we were lucky enough to see the very top of it on two separate occasions.

The first sighting was at Owakudani, which is famous for its hot springs and well-known black eggs. Just to give you an idea of how foggy it was, here is a photo of the lift that transported us to Owakudani. On a clear day, you would be able to see Mt. Fuji from here, but visibility is incredibly low beyond the first hill.

DSC05394

And this is what it’s “supposed” to look like. I took this picture from a magazine cover on the bullet train:

DSC05355 

Once we arrived, we found a reference picture that shows us what we are looking at. Very helpful, indeed:

mtfujiWhere Did Everything Go?

We found some helpful people who were able to point out that the very tip-top of the mountain was visible. While we could see it with the naked eye, our camera wasn’t able to produce a picture of the snow-capped summit.

DSC05429It’s there somewhere!

DSC05430Alex trying to point out the top

After Owakudani, we boarded a pirate ship cruise which is supposed to offer stunning views of Mt. Fuji. By now, the top of the mountain had disappeared 😦

DSC05440Boarding the Ship

While we didn’t find too much success seeing Mt. Fuji in Hakone, we had an unexpected streak of luck while taking the Shinkansen from Hakone to Kyoto. I happened to be sitting on the right side of the train, when a student in the seat to the left of us pointed out that Mt. Fuji was out the side of my window! We looked out, and sure enough, we could see a decent part of it!

DSC05561There it is!

So, here’s my advice if you want to actually see Mt. Fuji: It is more likely to be seen in the winter-time, between December and February. Don’t visit during the rainy season, because moisture in the air is high, and visibility is very low. Also, plan a visit in the morning. It is more likely to be seen in the early morning than in the afternoon. If you want to see the mountain with snow, don’t come here in the summer. There’s no snow on top, but you are able to climb it (this actually can be a very good reason to visit in the summer). Lastly, if you want to see it from the bullet trains, sit on the right side when heading West from Hakone or Tokyo towards Kyoto, or vice versa if you are heading East towards Hakone.

Mt. Fuji is one of those places that’s on nearly everyone’s bucket list, yet no one knows how difficult it is to see! I find it to be one of the most misleading travel spots, because everyone expects that they will be able to see all of it, and that’s not often the case. Even though we didn’t see the mountain in its entirety, we had the most wonderful time in Hakone. It’s an awesome town, and we would really love to go back. Hopefully, we will have better luck next time and will be able to see all of Mt. Fuji on a clear, sunny day!!

Tokyo Day Tour: Imperial Palace

The second half of our day tour began with a delicious teppanyaki lunch. I will cover that later in a post about Japanese food.

After lunch, we headed to the Imperial Palace. It is located in downtown Tokyo, near the Tokyo Station. The Palace grounds are surrounded by a moat. We were not allowed to go inside the Palace itself, and it is closed to the public most of the year.

DSC05086The Moat

You can’t really tell by the picture below, however, the buildings here are only allowed to have views of the Palace up to a certain floor. After that, the windows are blacked out so that there are no views which would allow someone to see inside the Palace grounds.

DSC05090Buildings in Downtown Tokyo

DSC05092Pretty Trees

DSC05097Entrance Gate

DSC05101View of the Palace and Bridge

DSC05104Groundskeepers

DSC05105The Moat

DSC05106Trees Outside the Palace

 

Tokyo Day Tour: Tokyo Tower

Alex and I were in Tokyo for about 6 days of our trip, however, we spent one day doing a group tour that we had found through Viator. It was an all day tour that went to all of the major Tokyo sites. Here’s an overview of our tour:

Our tour bus picked us up at the hotel early in the morning, and stopped at two or three other hotels before taking us to the main terminal where we officially joined our tour. Our group only had about 15 people, so it wasn’t too large.

Our first stop was to visit the Tokyo Tower. It looks like an orange version of the Eiffel Tower, and is actually taller. There is an interior observation deck, so you are able to have a 360 degree view without worrying about wind or rain, which were both concerns on the day we visited.

DSC04968View from our bus

DSC04969Downstairs

DSC04970Ticket Collection

DSC04971Elevator Ride

DSC04973

DSC04974Inside the Observatory

DSC04984View from the Tower

DSC04986Shinto Shrine inside the Observatory

DSC04989Rainy Day Views

DSC04990Alex Inside the Tower

DSC04993Look Out Below!!

DSC04995Glass flooring

Kawaii Culture

What is Kawaii culture? Kawaii is essentially the “cuteness” that infiltrates Japanese culture. It’s seen everywhere, from clothing, to toys, to behavior. It’s difficult to explain but you’ll know when you see it. People in the States would look at it and think “Juvenile” or “Young”, but here in Japan, Kawaii is not limited to adolescent girls. Adults, teens, and children alike like “kawaii” things. We most associate Kawaii with Hello Kitty and Pokémon, but it can apply to anything that is considered cute.

DSC05798Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Toy

DSC05756Pet Shops

DSC05776Monkeys in the Pet Shops

DSC05318Dressing and Posing “Kawaii” 

DSC05403Hello Kitty

DSC05165Dog Kimono

DSC04955Bus Keychain Toy

DSC04844Sneakers

DSC04858Tamagotchi Donut Shop 

I definitely went to Japan thinking that kawaii culture was silly and only for young girls, but I may or may not have left with a Rilakkuma stuffed toy and a hot pink Hello Kitty suitcase!!

Japan Rail Pass and Shinkansen Bullet Trains

Getting around Japan is relatively easy for a visitor. In our case, we planned to go outside of Tokyo and spend a few days in Hakone (Mt. Fuji area) and in Kyoto. We purchased a Japan Rail Pass, which allowed us direct access to these towns.

DSC05548

DSC05549

DSC05551Train Schedules. An English translation flashes up on the screen as well.

A Japan Rail Pass seems a little complicated at first glance, so I will try and simplify the information to give you a basic idea of how to obtain and use it.

These rail passes, operated by JR Group Railways, allow you to travel throughout Japan on Shinkansen Bullet Trains. The passes are only available to foreign visitors and Japanese nationals that live outside of Japan. Your passport must have you listed as a “Temporary Visitor”. We didn’t need to do anything special in order to get this stamp, you just have to be visiting for less than 90 days. I stressed about this part beforehand, but trust me, it will be stamped in your passport!

The tricky thing about the Japan Rail Pass is that it needs to be purchased *BEFORE* you arrive to Japan. You must buy an exchange order, which can be done through a travel agent. If you go to the JR Group’s website, they have a list of where you can buy exchange orders in your country. For us, we just picked it up at a local travel agency, and paid for it up front. You then take the exchange order to a train station in Japan, where you pick up the actual pass. Shinjuku was the closest station that gives out passes, so we found the JR kiosk and picked up our passes after giving them our exchange order.

While you’re there, you have the option to book your train trips, and can usually reserve seats. They have a giant book with the train schedule, and you just tell them where you need to go, and they will print out your train tickets. Do not worry about reservations, they will not fill up! No one else can book in advance either, so don’t worry about it. Our personal experience was that the trains were not very full anyway, with the exception of the ones headed into Tokyo. Even then, we had no problems with booking and finding seats together.

DSC05562

DSC05567

Our first bullet train was the Romancecar from Tokyo to Hakone. We had lunch on the train, as they offer a small selection of foods.

DSC05346

DSC05347Getting on the Romancecar

DSC05354Drinks from the ROMANCECAR Cafe in Shinjuku Station

DSC05360Lunch on the train

DSC05362Shinkansen Bento Box lunch

I’m sure you’re wondering about luggage space. There are spaces in each car that specifically make room for luggage. It’s a pretty decent space, and will fit two large pieces of luggage (or so I estimated). Additionally, there are spaces above the seats to store carry-on items, similar to what you have in an airplane. We brought an overnight bag, and sent our luggage through the Takkyubin service. This is a service that runs throughout the country and delivers your bags to your next destination. It makes it easier for you to travel without lugging around a big bag, and you can arrive with your bags delivered to your next hotel. I am obsessed with this service, and don’t know why more countries haven’t thought of this! It’s incredibly efficient, and pretty affordable. If I remember correctly, it was around $20 to send our luggage to Kyoto, and were able to arrange it through our hotel in Tokyo. I know a lot of people have trust issues overseas, but don’t worry, your bags will arrive safely! Our bag was even wrapped up to prevent damage!

DSC05349

JR Pass is only available in 7 day, 14 day, or 21 day passes. This means that you can travel as many times as you wish on the JR system throughout the duration of your ticket. The ticket is activated on the date you choose, so all you need to do is tell the people at the kiosk what days you want your pass for.

Because the JR pass offers unlimited travel, it can be VERY expensive. We bought the 7 day pass, which was around $400/ per person. That’s a lot of money to spend, but if you use it wisely, it can be so worth it and you can get around the country very quickly and efficiently. I obviously would NOT recommend this pass if you are only going to be in and around Tokyo for the extent of your trip.

The last piece of advice I can give about the JR Pass is to arrive early! The trains are very punctual, and they WILL leave when they are scheduled to leave!

I hope I covered all of the basics! This is a great pass for exploring Japan.

Update: Japan

(This is an update from a 2012 post. Look out for future posts, where we’ll give more detailed information on our trip to Japan!)

Hey there everyone,

I’m getting ready to leave for Japan in the next few hours and am getting so nervous for my flight…I LOATHE take-offs, especially when I’m stuck in a middle seat, as so happened on this particular flight.
Regardless of my fear of flying, I’m really looking forward to this trip. I haven’t been to Asia yet and I can only expect that it is drastically different from anything I’ve experienced before.

(As of this writing, I’ve now traveled to four countries in Asia. It has become my favorite continent, hands down! It’s just so different, so amazing, and so interesting. It was everything that I expected, in the sense that it was so different than anything else I’d experienced before. It was a true culture shock in the best possible way! The flight over to Japan itself was not bad. We flew Delta, and had a great movie selection, good food, and I slept most of the way.)

DSC04813DSC04814

I’m most excited to go to Harajuku and see the crazy and wild fashions. I normally am not a big fan of “kawaii”, or “cute” culture (like Hello Kitty), but I think once I’m in Tokyo and it’s everywhere around us, I might catch on to it. I’m also very excited to travel to Hakone, which is famous for its hot springs and location near Mt. Fuji. Alex and I are staying in a ryokan, which is a traditional Japanese inn. Our room has a private hot spring bath and we will be sleeping on futons. I am nervous about the food, however. At the ryokan, we are served a traditional Japanese dinner along with breakfast in the morning. I don’t like not being in control of my meals, so I’m nervous that I won’t like the food and will starve overnight. And what happens if I’m served octopus or eel? I MIGHT try some, but I don’t know that I can eat either as my main protein and keep it down. We’ll see.

(Harajuku was fun. We went there on our first day. It gave us great insight into Japanese pop culture. We did see some crazy fashions, but not as many as I expected. My favorite part of Harajuku was seeing all of the the crepe stands! Yum! And yes, I DID in fact, become obsessed with “kawaii”. I can’t describe why, but I “get it” now! I’ll eventually have to do a post on kawaii culture.

DSC04856 DSC04867

Visiting our ryokan was awesome. At the time, I felt like we were roughing it, and we were a bit miserable sleeping on hard floors in a cold room. Also, the hot spring bath was WAY too hot! But looking back, it was one of my favorite experiences over there. Being uncomfortable really serves for some amazing memories! And the food? Yes, it was a bit of an issue! The ryokan served totally traditional food, which is nothing like Westernized “Japanese” food, and we didn’t recognize half of the ingredients. No one spoke English there (and we didn’t expect them to), so we weren’t able to get translations of what everything was! I’m pretty sure we did, in fact, eat eel at some point. We ate the dinner, my favorite thing being the first course of shabu shabu (beef cooked in a broth). I will admit that we skipped breakfast the next morning, though.) 

DSC05517 DSC05525

Planning this trip has been incredibly time consuming and somewhat difficult compared to other trips. First, many US credit cards and phones don’t work in Japan in particular, so I had to contact both companies to make sure they worked and then to set up my international plan.
The easiest part of planning this trip was deciding on hotels and locations. First, deciding on a neighborhood in Tokyo seems intimidating, but it was relatively easy for us. Because Tokyo runs on an extensive subway system, we looked at what neighborhoods we would be frequenting the most, and then decided on the largest nearby station. In our case, we decided to stay in Shinjuku, which is apparently the largest station in Tokyo, and is therefore the best starting point to connect to any part of the city.

(Japan is an incredibly well organized country, and planning everything in advance really paid off. For the most part, everything went smoothly and we had no issues. At one point, we did have a problem accessing our debit card. The machines couldn’t read it for some reason. Eventually we found a “partner” with our bank that accepts our card, but it did take about three hours out of our day. 

As far as hotels, we were incredibly happy with our choices. We stayed at Hilton and Starwood hotels, which are always pretty nice. Shinjuku was a great area to stay in. The station itself is very busy, but the area near the hotel wasn’t, so we didn’t feel overwhelmed. For us, it was the best location both for comfort and convenience.)

DSC04837 DSC04886
Deciding what towns to visit while we are there was pretty easy as well…I cannot stay in one city longer than a week because I just get bored, so we decided to visit Tokyo, Hakone, and Kyoto on this trip. All three cities are accessible by the JR System, which is set up specifically for foreigners to travel throughout the country.
The JR system is a bit of a nightmare, and has been the worst part of the planning process. If you are a foreigner traveling to Japan, you can purchase a JR pass which allows you pretty much unlimited public transportation throughout the country. This is great to use if you will be traveling to more than one city because the price of a round trip ticket to and from Tokyo is the same cost as a 7 day pass. They cost around 350USD pp for 7 days. The thing with the JR Pass is that you MUST purchase an exchange order in the US…they do not sell them in Japan. I don’t know why this is, except maybe to weed out the number of people that are able to use it. Only “temporary visitors” to Japan are eligible for this ticket, and you must turn in the exchange order for a JR pass at a major Tokyo station. It is just an incredibly complex process that can be a little bit confusing, not to mention time consuming.

(The JR system is definitely complicated, and we got a bit confused when picking up our passes at the station. But once we did, the pass was explained to us and it was easy to use. The trains run ON TIME, which for us was awesome. I planned this trip down to the minute, and it made our plans really reliable.)

DSC05549

Speaking of trains, I have heard nearly everywhere that there is limited space for luggage on trains, which is why Japan has an incredibly efficient and reliable system of luggage delivery service that is called “Takkyubin”. Basically, you can have your bags delivered to anywhere in the country (i.e. to your hotel or to the airport) for a small fee. Many travelers use this, and it basically involves sending your luggage the night before. It will then arrive the following day for you to pick up.

(I think people exaggerated a bit about limited luggage space. Alex and I brought one big bag to share between the two of us for this reason. I learned to pack lightly, and will continue to do so in the future, but the trains were not usually full. When they were, baggage space wasn’t an issue. There are luggage spaces in the back of the train for large luggage. That being said, we did use the Takkyubin service. We shipped our bag from Tokyo to Kyoto so that we didn’t have to bring our luggage to Hakone, which is on the way. Our bag arrived at our hotel, and was waiting for us when we arrived. It arrived in one piece, and I wouldn’t hesitate to use the service again. It was really affordable and convenient to not have a large bag to lug around.)

DSC05764

The language barrier may be a bit of an issue while we’re over there, because a lot of people do not speak English. This is why it’s essential to learn basic phrases such as Hello, Thank you, Please, etc. I don’t like to learn phrases that are questions such as “Where is the bathroom?” because what happens when they respond in Japanese? They can always point, but if the bathroom is not within eyesight, you’re SOL. You don’t speak Japanese and knowing basic questions becomes useless and you won’t have gained any new information from asking that question. So I think that the one essential question to know is “Do you speak English?”
Japan also uses a different alphabet from English…in fact, they have three different alphabet systems. The easiest to learn is Hiragana. It is basically simplified Japanese. You can see it fairly often over there, so it can be helpful to learn as much of it as possible. I taught myself half of the alphabet so far, and will try to learn more on the flight over, in addition to carrying a little note card with me that has the characters and their English sounds. I feel like this is an important thing to learn. While you won’t be able to understand everything you read, it can be incredibly helpful when ready subway names or menu items, etc. For example, すし is pronounced “su-shi”. There you go, you have your first word, sushi! Or こかこーら is “Ko-Ka-Co-La”, or Coca-Cola! You already know some Japanese now.

(It was great to know how to say “Do you speak English?” A lot of people did in Tokyo, but not so much in Kyoto. Despite the minor language barrier, people really tried! Even when they didn’t speak English, they said they did and made an attempt to talk to us. I thought this was so awesome, and really reflective of the overall character of the people I met. 

Knowing Hiragana was only somewhat helpful. It was more fun, than anything. Most signs were in both Japanese and English, so it wasn’t necessary to learn. Also, many things were not written in Hiragana, so some things were impossible to read without the English translation anyway.)

DSC04812
Alright, well I’m off to finish packing, get some work done, and start ourselves off on a great trip!

(We had an amazing time in Japan. This was Alex’s favorite trip to date, and we can’t wait to go back one day!)

–Jordan–